As we drift into autumn, a fresh palette of colours is always helpful. There are three to know this time: one classic, one edgier, one unexpected.
The first is brown, which has completed its takeover from black. It began as the tasteful alternative – chocolate suede bags, espresso tailoring. Now it’s functioning as a true wardrobe neutral. It feels warmer, richer and less corporate than black, while still conveying authority. The interesting question is whether it has become so ubiquitous that it’s already losing its insider cachet. Find the shade that suits you, and experiment – and the answer is no.
If you already have brown trousers or knits from last year, you’ll know its value as an anchor colour. Now you can consider more glamorous iterations: bitter-chocolate satin, tobacco and mahogany fluffy knits. Texture is crucial — brown can look luxurious in velvet, silk and suede, but distinctly municipal in the wrong polyester.
Chartreuse is the grit in your autumn oyster. Unless you have deep olive Mediterranean or darker skin, it can be aggressively difficult near your face. But that’s part of its appeal. Bear with.
It has that Miuccia Prada, unobvious, Northern Italian appeal. Those of us whom it doesn’t suit are not putting it anywhere near our faces. We might however, wear it as a lace skirt (very Saint Laurent), as shoes or as a bag in suede, patent or satin (there’s a lot of it around), or even some socks, or a scarf you wear as a belt or on your bag. We might also broaden out into acidic khaki and mellow olive. They’re all different strands in the same story. The fact that they’re not straightforward is precisely their appeal. After years of tasteful neutrals and easily digestible “quiet luxury”, chartreuse especially, introduces some genuine flair and interest.
Baby blue, or powder blue, which sounds more sophisticated, is the genuinely surprising one. Traditionally associated with spring, newborns, bridesmaids and rather prim cashmere, slipping it into your autumn wardrobe, particularly in tailoring, substantial knits and coats removes its sweetness, while uplifting your darker shades. Against chocolate brown, it looks chilly, cerebral and unexpectedly grown-up. Like chartreuse, this is the one to wear sparingly. A little goes a long way.
Together, the three colours perform different jobs. Brown reassures and might even seem overly familiar. But it’s far too early to abandon it. It has much, much more mileage, especially in sumptuous fabrics. It’s far softer on the skin than black, so why ever let it go altogether? The point is, any colour, worn head to toe, endlessly, can become boring. So experiment. Keep an open mind. Chartreuse will make last year’s brown purchases look provocative. Pale blue will refresh them. Wear all three together and as autumn chills into winter, your wardrobe, if nothing else does, should feel energised and optimistic.
Get inspired...
Chocolate
Satin blouse, £165, The Fold; Silk skirt, £330, LouLou de Saison at Net-A-Porter; Skirt, £139, Karen Millen
Velvet midi dress, £139, COS; Crew-neck jumper, £185, The White Company
Powder blue
Wool jacket, £190, Hush; Brushed wool top, £100, Marks & Spencer; Pussybow shirt, £165, Wyse London
Chartreuse
Scarf, £90 (£69 on sale), Whistles; Silk midi skirt, £248 Reformation at Selfridges; Leather boots, from £550, Dear Frances;
Suede bag, £350, Strathberry
Lisa wears: Cotton cardigan, £115; top, £85 and linen-blend skirt, £245, all The Fold; Leather mules, £99, Jaeger; Resin and metal earrings, £245 and cuff, £335, Dinosaur Designs; Gold-toned necklace, £39, Mint Velvet
Photography: Sarah Brick; Hair and makeup: Oonagh Connor at Joy Goodman; Styling: Sophie Tobin Stylist; Styling assistant: Alice Dench