Posing gracefully between sea and mountains, San Sebastián’s beauty is enthralling; staring at (and photographing) it is a favourite pastime. While most come to eat, the city has been attracting visitors since long before the gastronomic boom, and it boasts plenty of non-foodie activities.
Whether nature or culture is your preferred way to while away a holiday, in San Sebastián they collide. Climb the three mountains by foot or funicular, visit retro theme parks, or take a boat out to the island for a new view of the spectacular bay.
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Best for local flavour
Sociedades
Sociedades, or txokos, stand tall as the pillars of Basque eating culture. These members-only spaces are outfitted with professional cooking equipment, dry storage and lots of wine – everything one needs for a long meal of classic Basque cuisine, made by and enjoyed among friends. These clubs are rarely open to the public, so snag entry with a member (some tour groups offer the experience on a private basis).
The other option is to visit on San Sebastián Day, January 20, when some of the Old Town’s most famous societies open their doors to the public – a wilder atmosphere, yes, but a glance at the hallowed halls.
San Sebastián shopping
££
As its regal architecture and ritzy inhabitants suggest, San Sebastián is a moneyed town. Blocks of independent shops of all types stretch the imagination (and the wallet). Head to Minük and Labui for women’s clothes, inma_lo for shoes, and Loreak Mendian for Basque-influenced clothing. Old town jewellery shop Casa Munoa has a bijou for every price point, including a necklace shaped like the Concha Bay. Unique homeware can be found at Valentina, and stationery shop Tamayo is a classic spot for getting lost among shelves of tempting goods.
Insider tip: Unassuming storefronts might hide great finds, such as Bois et Fer, an eclectic shop founded by furniture designers and stocked with stylish homeware. And a bit off the beaten path you’ll find one of the best independent perfume shops in Spain, Hunky Dory.
Basque cider houses
££ | zapiain.eus
An experience, not a restaurant – Basque cider houses are some of the most curious productions of the local countryside. Arrive at the expansive country homes, nearly all of which are still owned by single family, where cider has been crafted for centuries. Drink cider from the barrels and dine family-style on salt cod and steak, course after course, experiencing a real Basque tradition.
Insider tip: “Gutxi eta maiz” is the expert’s technique. In Basque it means “a little bit and often”, and it’s the way to drink so that your cider is always cold and your night always lively.
Albaola
£ | albaola.com
The Basques were once the greatest mariners and whalers in the Atlantic world, and Albaola, the Sea Factory of the Basques, has the receipts. Set in the stunning natural harbour of Pasaia, just downhill from San Sebastián, this is a working shipyard where master craftsmen are reconstructing the San Juan, a 16th-century Basque whaling galleon that crossed the Atlantic in an era when Basque sailors ruled the ocean. Watch artisans shape timber with traditional tools, learn how these seafarers charted deep water without modern tools, and come away with a completely new sense of how important this small stretch of northern coastline was to the wider world.
I recommend crossing to the other side of the harbour on the tiny passenger ferry (just a minute each way) to spend an afternoon wandering through Pasai Donibane, a village of painted houses stacked along the waterfront.
Museo Chillida Leku
Eduardo Chillida, with his thrillingly Basque sensibility, is San Sebastián’s favoured artist. He is famous for his geometric sculptural pieces, made with rock, iron and other elemental materials. His recently re-opened museum outside of the city limits, Chillida Leku, exhibits the artist’s work as he intended, in a Basque farmhouse environment, stark against rolling green hills and distant mountains.
Insider tip: If you can’t make it out to the countryside, at least marvel at Chillida’s famous curved iron structures that branch out from the rocks at the end of Ondarreta Beach, combing the wind as it whips from the ocean into the city.
Best for families
Zurriola Beach
££ | eskola.pukassurf.com
Of San Sebastián’s three beaches, the Zurriola attracts the young, surfing crowd. Several surf schools line the beach, renting equipment and offering lessons, but Pukas is the most established. Jump atop a foam board if you’re beginning, or a short, handcrafted Pukas surfboard if you’re already confident, and surf the lefthander that peels off towards the pier or the Monpas righthander.
Monte Igueldo Amusement Park
£ | monteigueldo.es
One of the oldest attractions in San Sebastián, the Monte Igueldo Amusement Park also happens to be one of the most magical. Inaugurated in 1912, it sits on an incredible overlook, the best spot in town for breathtaking photos.
The real charm, however, lies in the park’s retro – and exceptionally well-priced – rides. Don’t miss a chance to ride the Swiss Mountain, a vintage rollercoaster that incites heart palpitations as much for its age as for its precarious perch over the sea.
Best free things to do
Tamborrada
Free
The evening before January 20, all locals prepare for Tamborrada, the biggest day of the year, gathering in the Plaza de la Constitucion with drums at the ready for the stroke of midnight. San Sebastián Day has been celebrated with tamborradas, or drumming groups, since 1871, and since then the festival has grown to immense proportions.
Insider tip: Don’t miss the emotional izada (flag raising) at midnight, and follow along as dozens of groups dressed as cooks and soldiers march around the Old Town.
The Tabakalera
Free | tabakalera.eus
An amble through this immense building, a former cigarette factory that towers over the Urumea River, reveals the beating cultural heart of the city. The Tabakalera holds five floors of exhibition space, media labs, a creation library, and plenty of extra nooks. Don’t miss a food court with some fabulous pizzas and coffee.
Insider tip: Be sure to make it to the very top floor – an unadvertised but spectacular glass prism with an outdoor terrace. The view of the city is breathtaking.
Best for views
Isla de Santa Clara
The Isla de Santa Clara is one of the most-photographed islands in the world, but few visitors actually step foot on it. The island has long been a catch-all; it was even used to quarantine those with the plague centuries ago. Nowadays, it is home to a lighthouse with a huge bronze art installation by Cristina Iglesias, stone tables that seem to pop up out of nowhere, ideal for a picnic, and a full-service bar with tables in the sun – not to mention amazing views of the city.
The common way to arrive is by boat, which sails regularly in the summer season. An even cooler way to arrive is in a rented kayak (try Alokayak), paddling up and enjoying the island on your own time.
Monte Urgull
Free
Ascending this ancient lookout spot is one of the city’s great pre- or post-prandial joys. Monte Urgull towers over the Old Town, and it played an important role in San Sebastián’s history. Enjoy the views, the hidden bar on the west side, or the scattering of landmarks (stone remains of a castle, a fort, and even a cemetery that pays homage to English soldiers).
Insider tip: The giant statue of Jesus Christ atop the mountain isn’t just for show – it happens to hold a fun (and free) museum with a multimedia look at San Sebastián, past, present and future.
La Perla
£ | la-perla.net
Founded by a Spanish queen over 100 years ago, La Perla spa has one of the city’s best possible locations – lapped by the waters of La Concha Bay, in the centre of San Sebastián. Once deemed the world’s most beautiful spa, nowadays it leans more towards retro charm, but the hydro circuit is truly one of the best ways to spend a rainy day.
To do it like a local, make sure to incorporate a dip into the cold ocean water of the bay in between sauna dips. You’ll find the doors to the beach in the swimming pool area.
How we choose
Every attraction and activity in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets and styles, from world-class museums to family-friendly theme parks – to best suit every type of traveller. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest openings and provide up-to-date recommendations.